Central Coast winery takes flight in pursuit of perfect wine — Odonata Wines

Denis Hoey was fresh out of college and learning to make wine in California’s Santa Cruz mountains when he had a sudden realization: this would be his life’s work.

“I met a gentleman Jeff Emery who took me under his wing, taught me how to make wine, and I just fell in love with it,” said Denis. “About two weeks into working for him, I went home to my girlfriend, who’s now my wife, plunked down a bottle of wine that we had just bottled and said, ‘This is what I’m going to do for the rest of my life.’”

From that point on, Denis has been taking his own fresh perspective to old-world winemaking that highlights his home terroir in Monterey County.

After working his way up to become the production manager for Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard, Denis started Odonata Wines in 2005. What began as a small passion project to produce 65 cases of petite syrah has steadily grown into a winemaker’s dream.

“I’ve been organically growing for 19 harvests,” said Denis. “When I had the ‘aha’ moment, I worked that harvest and then the next harvest I made my first wine. I rubbed every penny I had together.”

Perched on the northern edge of the Santa Lucia Highlands, Odonata is a small winery by industry standards but one that punches well above its weight in range and quality, producing an extensive selection of sparkling, white and red wines. The winery has two acres of vineyard land along with a tasting room and patio to welcome visitors.

The name Odonata is a scientific term for a group of flying insects which includes the dragonfly. Denis said the business has grown in popularity over the years while maintaining the mindset of a small, agile winery.

“The business of Odonata is organic in that it didn’t come from money,” said Denis. “We didn’t start with millions of dollars to then hopefully turn a profit at some point. I was just always shoveling [profits] back into a dream.”

Making wine and learning to do ‘everything’

Growing up the son of teachers, Denis was not exactly primed for a career in the wine industry. He does, however, have an innate love for learning that has become a trademark of his winemaking over the past two decades.

“What makes this so special for me is that I get to live on this five-acre property, and some days I’m digging a hole, finding a pipe, perhaps breaking and then fixing that pipe,” said Denis. “I’m making wine, yes, but I’m also managing a business. Anything that comes my way, I learn how to do it. Winemaker is my definition, but everything is also my definition.”

Now in his 19th growing season, Denis is accustomed to the ups and downs of harvest, working to make sure that each variety he produces hits the right notes. Lately, Denis said he has been motivated by hearing his children express interest and appreciation for his work.

“My son just went to school, and for the first time he put on paper, basically, ‘It would be interesting to be a winemaker. I really respect my dad for what he does,’” he said. “That just about made me cry.”

Living in a region with a strong community of multigenerational farms and ranches, Denis and his wife Claire say they hope to one day pass Odonata Wines along to their two boys as a healthy, sustainable business.

“To be able to pass [the winery] on to them in a healthy way, with the business not being saddled by debt, would be really cool,” he said. “That is what I strive for every day, to make the business healthy so that it’s viable to give to my kids as a legacy.”

Spencer Deems is vice president of lending at American AgCredit, a leading Farm Credit Association based in Santa Rosa, California. Before he worked with Denis on financing for winery expansion projects, Spencer was a wine club member at Odonata. Spencer said working with Denis and his team to help them meet their goals has been a rewarding experience.

“What makes this unique is that it’s more of a personal relationship,” Spencer said. “I was Denis’ customer before he was my customer. On top of that, I live two or three miles down the street. It really feels like we’re helping make a difference.”

Looking ahead to the next season at Odonata Wines, Denis said he continues to be inspired by the pursuit of a perfect bottle of wine, ideally to be shared with friends and family.

“I’m not a surfer, but a surfer is addicted to the waves because they’re always looking for that perfect wave, that perfect ride,” said Denis. “I’m always looking for that perfect wine, looking at my wines from a critical lens. I want to make that perfect wine. And when I feel like I’ve achieved something very, very good, I’m back in the cellar because I want to do more.”